SKU: 38943457644
snowpatch route bugaboos

snowpatch route bugaboos Snowpatch Spire

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Description

snowpatch route bugaboos Snowpatch SpireSecond only to the west faces of the Howser Towers in size but much steeper and a lot easier to access, the east face of Snowpatch Spire has been one of the main playgrounds of the Bugaboos since Fred Beckey (again!) opened the first line on the wall in 1959. In 2015, it became home to one of the hardest free big wall lines in the world, the Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5. 14a. Unfortunately, in December 2022, the fault line of Bugaboo Corner finally

Second only to the west faces of the Howser Towers in size but much steeper and a lot easier to access, the east face of Snowpatch Spire has been one of the main playgrounds of the Bugaboos since Fred Beckey (again!) opened the first line on the wall in 1959. In 2015, it became home to one of the hardest free big wall lines in the world, the Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14a.


Unfortunately, in December 2022, the fault line of Bugaboo Corner finally gave way, and a large portion of the lower right face came crashing down the glacier. Many routes, including Tom Egan, are now gone. The upper portion of the ultra-classic Sunshine Crack, on the edge of the face, might still be climbable if an alternative start can be found.

 

Download: Medium resolution, personal use only

Route List

1: Left Hand var., 5.9, A. Hall, C. Hall, C. Boeking, 08/1986
2: Direct var., 5.10-, R. MacAllister, G. Gledhill
3: Snowpatch Route, 5.8, J. Arnold, R. Bedayn, 08/1940
4: Honeymooners var., 5.9, L. Benoliel, A. Hamilton, 08/1989
5: Lost on the Beckey, 5.12, C. McGee, J. Walsh, 08/2017
6: Beckey-Mather, 5.7 A2, F. Beckey, H. Mather, 08/1959
7: Johnston-Kruk, 5.12-, C. Johnston, J. Kruk, 08/2008
8: Vertical Party, 5.9 A2, M. Arbos, J. Clotet, 08/1993
9: East Face Diagonal/Slanting Sinkers, 5.7 A3/5.13+, P. Carman, Y. Chouinard, D. Tompkins, 08/1971 C. Brazeau et al., 08/2021
10: Sendero Norte, 5.12c, J. Walsh, C. Brazeau, 08/2007 W. Stanhope, H. Findlay, J. Kruk, M. Segal, 07/2009
11: In Harm’s Way, 5.8 A3, P. Cole, M. Richey, R. Rouner, 08/1975
12: Deux ex Machina, 5.9 A3, M. Jefferson, J. Shervais, D. Saunders, 08/1974
13: Welcome to the Machine, 5.11+, J. Walsh, M. Kadatz, A. Berg, 08/2015
14: Minotaur, 5.12-, J. Walsh, C. Moorhead, 08/2011
15: Sunshine Wall *, 5.10, A. Higbee, D. Breashers, 07/1975
16: Les Bruixes Es Pentinen, 5.10+ A3, Besora, Bou, Queipo, 1997
17: Parker-Brashaw, 5.9 A1, P. Brasahw, A. Parker, 07/1977
18: Labyrinth, 5.12-, J. Walsh, J. Simms, 08/2009
19: Tekenika *, 5.12+, M. Mayr, H. Mair, O. Renzler, 08/2005
20: Men with Options *, 5.12, C. Johnston, C. Giesler, J. Lavigne, S. Meis, 07/2014
21: Chercher la Femme *, 5.12+ A0, T. Gibson, J. Schaffer, 07/2012
22: Warrior’s Way *, 5.10 A3+, Cliff Jirka, Craig Jirka, A. Dannerbeck, Rick D., 07/1993
23: Hockey Night in Jersey *, 5.9 C3, S. Grossman, K. Johnston, 07/1994
24: Sweet Silvia *, 5.12, W. Hair, K. Harvey, B. Jackson, C. Luebben, 07/1997
25: Tom Egan Memorial Route *, 5.9 A3/5.14, D. Hatten, J. Simpson, 08/1978 W. Stanhope, M. Segal, 08/2015
26: White Ducks in Space *, 5.7 A3, R. Orvig, J. Richardson, 07/1987
27: Power of Lard *, 5.12, G. Dengler, T. Lamprecht, 08/1996
28: Hobo’s Haven *, 5.7 A4/5.13-, J. Beyer, 08/1976/C. Brazeau et al., 08/2021
29: East Columbia Indirect *, 5.12-, C. Brazeau, C. Lank, 08/2012
30: Bugaboo Corner *, 5.10, E. Davies, P. Derouin, I. Rowe, 07/1971
31: Sunshine Crack *, 5.11-, A. Lowe, S. Scott, 07/1980


Sources
  • The Bugaboos, The Climbers Guide,” Chris Atkinson, Marc Piché, High Col Press, 2022

  • Bugaboo Rock, A Climbing Guide,” 2nd ed., Randall Green, Joe Bensen, The Mountaineers Books, 2003

  • The Bugaboos, An Alpine History,” J.F. Garden, Footprint Publishing, 1987

  • The American Alpine Journal, Vol. 60, Issue 92, 2018

  • Mountain Project

  • Friends of the Bugaboos Facebook Page

  • James Madden

  • Jon Walsh

Updates

Jan 30, 2023: First version published.

Feb 8, 2023: Updated name of line 2 from "Right Hand var" to "Direct var".

Mar 7, 2024: Graphic design update.

Feb 18, 2026: Graphic design update, reprocessed base image, changed colors, added details in caption info, removed the ugly red marking of the rockfall (affected routes are still marked with a * in the caption).

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SKU: 38943457644

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4.6 ★★★★★
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Rachel
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 4
Mostly easy recipes that taste great!
Format: Spiral-bound
This cookbook has some easy recipes and some that are a bit more involved. She has video links tho to help you along if you need it. I’ve probably made about 1/2 of the recipes in here(not the desserts) and most have been great. The miso chicken, the fried chicken, the mollzballs, the cauliflower salad, and many more were big hits with my family. Got the spiral bound which is really nice to have!
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Reviewed in the United States on December 13, 2025
K
Verified Purchase
Kelly
Grantham, US
★★★★★ 5
One of the greatest cookbooks I’ve ever bought
Format: Hardcover
I love cookbooks—like really really love them. I have a collection. I just finished reading this through on the night I received it via preorder—I tracked it all day because I was so excited. I just intuitively felt like after looking at the images and preview that there was really something special about this one. Being a cookbook lover, you can just smell it. This one seemed dense with intention and value, and so colorful, accessible and of-the-moment. And boy was I right!! While there literally hasn’t been enough time to cook anything from this yet (it arrived on my door step three hours ago), I can already tell you that this thing has more soul and voice than 99% of the cookbooks out there. She had me LAUGHING out loud like 12 times no exaggeration (Maldon in the purse?! F yeah ur my girl!), misty eyed (last meal convo), IMPRESSED (QR code for real time audio instructions w classical music?! and vids?! #INNOVATION), thrilled at the ingenuity (salt scoville unit rating omfg), and just overall really knocked back by the joy of seeing someone really live their dreams and GIVE IT to the world. It is so palpable that Molly is living her dreams, and you can tell she works for it. Her writing seems more like her true or embodied self than her spoken words in old YouTube vids I recall. This book is aspirational from a lifestyle perspective but it has nothing to do with the very cool graphic design, great photography and food styling (all wonderful) or her ultra hip house or LA social life or whatever… which is all fun to peek in on, but—it’s because this is a person who has found her calling and is LIVING IT 👏👏 … COMMITTING… and generously sharing herself in the most authentic way with us. It’s just so HER, so specific, which is what we wanna see in ARTISTS. And while I’ve followed Molly with appreciation for years (I never got around to buying her first book but live for her gochujang chx and other Bon Appetit recipes), I’m realizing I have either been sleeping on the true depths of her talent OR she has recently bloomed into just like, her fullest self and I am so so happy for her. I came for the ingredient lists organized by grocery store layout (F-ING FINALLY FINALLY THANK YOU THANK YOU) and the fun vintage typography/nostalgia and umami bombs and gorgeous meatballs, but the inspiration that this book vibrates with (GO FOR IT! Life the life you are meant to live!) will stay with me for quite some time. As a former cooking instructor I know the critical importance of building confidence in order to be a good cook but she just took that concept and blew it to its heights/made it REAL. Can’t wait to make cauliflower salad w vegan ranch, leek za, coconut cornbread, fish n shingled potatoes and orange creamsicle poppy cake. THANK YOU MOLLY!
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Reviewed in the United States on October 11, 2023
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Verified Purchase
Colleen Rollins
Lake Worth, US
★★★★★ 5
Molly Snapped. AGAIN
Format: Hardcover
I’ve made a few recipes from this book already and dear god, they’re so good. The hot sauce-braised short ribs and chile-basted half chicken in particular were jaw-droppingly delicious!! One thing I keep seeing is that she reused recipes from her subscription The Club, so maybe don’t get this book if you already have that. I’m not a member of The Club, so these were all new and exciting for me. Another thing - this is not a dry, straightforward cookbook. It’s focuses on fun graphic design and has her signature lingo in it. Yes, the font is kooky, and I’m here for all of it. It’s not illegible, but know what you’re signing up for. And finally, this is not a health cookbook. She has never claimed it is, so I don’t know why some reviews are up in arms about the health aspect. It’s literally called More is More, guys. Some recipes are indulgent, and that’s okay! I try to eat somewhat healthy, and there’s still a lot in it that I could make without modifications. Basically, if you want a very fun, eye-catching cookbook with DELICIOUS recipes, this is for you!
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Reviewed in the United States on October 31, 2023
C
Verified Purchase
Claudio
Massapequa, US
★★★★★ 5
Amazing recipes, but a visually exhausting thing to read
Format: Hardcover
The recipes in this book are amazing. Reading through them and flipping back and forth through the pages you can tell Molly put a lot of time and attention into making powerful recipes packed with flavor, with all of them being incredibly approachable in actual technique. There are too many good things to call out with this collection of recipes. But existing as an easily digestible and referenced cookbook, it kind of sucks. The editing in this book is supposed to be *fun*. There are random font styles in every page and sometimes there are weird lines that become wavy. There are points in the book where there’s suddenly a cocktail recipe thrown into a chapter about salads or sandwiches. Great sounding cocktails, but ones you’ll need to scan the recipe list for since how would you be able to know which chapter it was thrown into? At the end of the day I feel like a cookbook should be an easy tool for someone to use in the kitchen when there’s already so much going on. The book is visually exhausting to read, but looks very very delicious to make from.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 11, 2023
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Verified Purchase
Liz K.
Pawtucket, US
★★★★★ 3
Nice recipes, AWFUL font
Format: Hardcover, Format: Hardcover
I loved Cook This Book. Mine has a permanent crease on the Caesar salad page and the other recipes I have tried have all been winners, so I was excited to get Molly’s next book. My initial browse through the recipes has me excited to try them out, I just cannot understand the choice of this awful font. It is so difficult to read and make out the letters. I can’t imagine how difficult it would be for someone with visual or reading impairments. There is even a fully black page with dark blue font that is basically unreadable (the picture I included is very kind, in real life the contrast is extremely minimal). It’s such a huge distraction from what otherwise appears to be a nice collection.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 12, 2023

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