SKU: 43873099782
plain green philodendron

plain green philodendron ‘Green Princess’ Philodendron 6" Pot / Self Watering / Without Pot

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Description

plain green philodendron ‘Green Princess’ Philodendron 6" Pot / Self Watering / Without PotKey Highlights Philodendron Green Princess The Philodendron Green Princess is known for its glossy, deep green leaves, which add a vibrant and tropical feel to any indoor space. Its compact, bushy growth makes it perfect for desks, shelves, or small corners. The thick, waxy leaves store moisture, allowing the plant to withstand short periods of drought. This makes it a low maintenance choice for those who may occasionally forget to water. It helps to

Key Highlights - Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ 

  1. The Philodendron Green Princess is known for its glossy, deep-green leaves, which add a vibrant and tropical feel to any indoor space. Its compact, bushy growth makes it perfect for desks, shelves, or small corners.
  2. The thick, waxy leaves store moisture, allowing the plant to withstand short periods of drought. This makes it a low-maintenance choice for those who may occasionally forget to water.
  3. It helps to remove toxins such as formaldehyde, thereby improving indoor air quality.
  4. Unlike many philodendrons that trail or climb, ‘Green Princess’ grows in a compact, upright shape, making it ideal for small spaces without the need for support or pruning.

The Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ is a stunning, and beloved evergreen-perennial known for its glossy, deep-green foliage and easy-care nature. This tropical plant is an excellent choice for both beginners and experienced plant enthusiasts due to its adaptability and resilience. Unlike vining philodendrons, ‘Green Princess’ has a more upright, bushy growth habit, making it ideal for indoor spaces where a structured, lush appearance is desired. 

Like most philodendrons, ‘Green Princess’ originates from the tropical rainforests of Central and South America. Due to its popularity as a houseplant, it is now widely cultivated in greenhouses and nurseries worldwide. 

One of the most striking features of the ‘Green Princess’ Philodendron is its lush, deep-green foliage.

The leaves are smooth, slightly elongated, and have a glossy finish, which enhances their vibrant appearance.

Unlike climbing philodendrons, this variety remains compact and bushy, making it perfect for tabletops, shelves, and small indoor spaces.

The plant is also known for being low-maintenance, tolerating lower light conditions, and requiring minimal care compared to other tropical houseplants.

When grown indoors, this ‘Green Princess’ plant typically grows up to 10 inches tall and spreads about 10 inches wide.

Its slow-growing nature makes it easy to manage, and with occasional pruning, it can maintain a tidy, bushy form. While it can grow larger under optimal conditions, it remains significantly smaller than climbing philodendron varieties. 

The flowers of Green Princess Philodendron bloom in spring and summer. The flowers have white petal-like structures called spathes, with a green center (spadix). While this plant is mainly grown for its leaves, these rare flowers can add a nice touch of color to your home. 

The Philodendron Green Princess is a compact and versatile plant, making it perfect for small spaces and a variety of indoor settings. This natural air purifier helps trap dust and improve air quality, while also requiring minimal care, making it ideal for beginners. With its mood-boosting greens, the Philodendron Green Princess adds vitality and a soothing presence to your home, creating a welcoming and refreshing atmosphere.  

When and How to Water Your Philodendron Green Princess 

Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ is a drought-tolerant plant that can withstand periods of dryness, making it an excellent choice for plant owners who may occasionally forget to water. The plant’s thick, glossy leaves help retain moisture, allowing it to survive short dry spells. To ensure proper hydration, always check the soil’s moisture level before watering—water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry.

In the spring and summer, during the active growing season, the ‘Green Princess’ Philodendron requires more frequent watering to support its lush foliage and steady growth. Typically, watering once every 7 to 10 days is sufficient, but this may vary based on climate and indoor conditions. If grown outdoors, more frequent watering may be necessary during extreme heat. To promote even growth, use lukewarm water and ensure proper drainage. 

In the fall and winter months, the plant enters a semi-dormant stage, requiring significantly less water. Reduce watering frequency to once every 2 to 3 weeks, allowing the soil to dry out more between waterings. Lower temperatures and reduced light exposure slow down growth, minimizing the plant’s water needs. However, ensure the air is not too dry by maintaining adequate humidity. 

Light Requirements – Where to Place Your Green Princess Philodendron 

When growing indoors as a houseplant, this philodendron thrives in bright, indirect light.

Place it near a north or east-facing window where it receives gentle morning sunlight without direct exposure to harsh afternoon rays.

If natural light is insufficient, supplement with a grow light for at least 10-12 hours daily to maintain healthy growth.

Avoid placing it in direct sunlight, as excessive light can scorch the leaves.

For outdoor cultivation, it should be placed in a shaded or partially shaded area, as direct sunlight can cause leaf burns.

Ideally, it should receive 3-5 hours of morning sunlight followed by dappled shade throughout the day. In warm climates, growing it under a tree canopy or a covered patio ensures it receives the right balance of light without stress from intense sun exposure. Whether indoors or outdoors, rotate the plant occasionally to ensure even light distribution and balanced growth. 

Optimal Soil and Fertilizer Needs

Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ thrives in a well-draining, nutrient-rich soil mix. Your soil must have a sandy texture and a low water-holding capacity, just like desert soil.  Soggy wet soil can damage your green princess Philodendron and contribute to bacterial and fungal rot. Ideally, you want to use our specialized potting mix, opens in a new tab that contains 5 natural substrates and organic mycorrhizae to promote the development of a strong root system that helps your Philodendron to thrive.   

For best results, fertilize the plant once a year in the spring using a balanced liquid NPK fertilizer with a ratio of 5-10-5. This promotes lush foliage and steady growth. Avoid over-fertilization, as excessive nutrients can lead to salt buildup and damage the roots.  

Hardiness Zones & More 

When growing indoors as a houseplant, Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ thrives in temperatures between 65-80°F with humidity levels above 50%. Keeping it in a humid environment, such as a bathroom or kitchen, is ideal. If the air is too dry, use a humidifier or pebble tray to maintain moisture levels. Additionally, ensure the plant receives adequate indirect light for at least 10-12 hours daily. 

In the United States, this is mostly an indoor plant, but if you live in southern Florida or Hawaii then you can cultivate it outdoors in USDA zones 9-11.

It can tolerate temperatures down to 50°F but should be protected from cold drafts and frost.

If grown in a container, bring it indoors when temperatures drop.

It thrives in moderate to high humidity and should be placed in a shaded area with 3-5 hours of morning sunlight. 

Wildlife - Philodendron Attracts the Following Friendly Pollinators 

Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ produces unique flowers that can attract pollinators such as beetles, flies, and other small insects. Although it is primarily grown for its foliage, its infrequent blooms add an extra dimension to its appeal.

According to the ASPCA, Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ is mildly toxic to humans and pets due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause irritation if ingested in a large amount. However, it is safe to touch and handle, making it a popular choice for indoor houseplants. 

How to Propagate Your Philodendron Green Princess

You can propagate your plant through stem cuttings. Choose a healthy stem with at least two nodes and cut it with sterile pruning shears. Allow the cutting to dry for a few hours before placing it in water or moist soil. If you propagate in water, change the water every 3-5 days to prevent bacterial growth. Roots should develop within 2-4 weeks, after which the cutting can be transferred to soil.

The Bottom Line 

Overall, the Philodendron ‘Green Princess’ is a beautiful, low-maintenance houseplant that brings a touch of tropical elegance to any indoor space. Its lush, glossy foliage, compact growth, and resilience make it a favorite among plant lovers. Whether placed on a shelf, desk, or in a decorative pot, this philodendron adds a refreshing green presence with minimal effort. With the right care—moderate watering, indirect light, and occasional pruning—it will remain a vibrant and attractive feature in any home or office. 

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4.8 ★★★★★
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Verified Purchase
morey smith
Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to apply.
Size: 4 Oz
Product did a great job renewing my plastic house shutters. It brought back the deep rich color and made them look better the new.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 27, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Stuart R. Stengel
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 5
Great Stuff
Size: 120 ML
Product is good, Easy to spread for the most part. The only complaint I would give it is that the applicators do not hole up after several applications, I would suggest using a microfiber cloth to apply.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 1, 2026
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Teresa Wilson
West Palm Beach, US
★★★★★ 5
Restored My Trim Instantly
Size: 120 ML
I used this plastic restorer on the faded trim around my SUV, and the difference was immediate. The dull gray plastic turned back to a rich black color within minutes. It spreads evenly and doesn’t leave greasy streaks behind. After a few weeks and several rainy days, the finish still looks great. My car honestly looks years newer now.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2026
E
Verified Purchase
Eric J. Jenislawski
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 5
Great result, exceptional value, and easy, forgiving application.
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
I am thoroughly pleased with the results of this product, and the application was easier than I expected. Outstanding stuff. I am writing a longer review in case it helps people who are unsure about a "once and done" product that calls itself permanent. It's not hard to apply. It is forgiving and there's time to even it out. But here are some things to anticipate. My use case: I used Cerakote to restore the plastic trim on a used 2014 black Dodge Challenger that had been repainted but the plastic trim was original and it had been kept outside by the prior owner, so the contrast between the new paint and faded trim was noticeable. The trim was originally a deep, dark gray (it is never as black as the paint). It had faded to a medium-gray in many places: running boards on the side beneath the door, below the read bumper (which were also somewhat worn from debris), around the tail lights, and the plastic piece beneath the windshield wipers between the windshield and the hood. These were all looking weathered. The trim was very oxidized in some places, chalky grey near the hood and around the back bumper. The plastic around the tail lights also had light streaks in it from where water drains down from the trunk. What else I tried before I tried Cerakote: I got middling results from Mother's Back to Black. It looked somewhat better for a week or two, and then it went back to looking as before. Not impressed. I got a tip online to try rubbing the plastic trim with a melamine magic eraser, so I did that next, and this made a significant difference. Melamine is abrasive, so be careful if you do this on your trim. I went gently, up-and-down, side-to-side and in small circles, by hand, with gentle pressure like one would with a polishing compound. By removing the oxidation, the plastic was a few shades darker in the worst spots and the streaking on the rear tail light piece was gone. The rough spots on the trim at the bottom of the car and around the wheels looked somewhat better. But it certainly did not "like new." Cerakote experience: I decided to give Cerakote a try based on the video and good reviews. Bam! Back to factory-like deep dark gray. I wish I had taken pictures. It's incredible. Fully satisfied! I had already washed the trim with Dawn dish soap. I started with the trim bone dry. You are warned everywhere that water droplets will ruin the result, so don't expect to do this process right after you wash the car unless you like to live dangerously and have compressed air to spray cracks and crevices. I was worried that application would be streaky if I didn't do it right. Not so. It is forgiving. Here's what I learned. 1) The first 20% of what you'll get out of the packet goes on heavy with the lightest touch. One packet goes a long way. The next 60% is the "normal" application. This goes on the easiest. You can really milk the last drop out of each towelette, but I didn't because the last 20% of what you can get out of it by rubbing it really hard comes out very light and is not worth the uneven application unless you have some random area you don't care much about and want to use the remainder for that. I only used 5 packets to do the whole car. When you start a new packet, the beginning is where you might want to go back later and even it out once the application gets more normal. Or better, start a new packet on a big section to spread it around well and then move to smaller trim when the towelette is less fresh. 2) You've got time to work with it and make corrections. It stayed liquid like water for at least 20 minutes in my conditions: about 80 degrees, not very humid, indirect sunlight on an 80 degree car. Don't apply in direct sun or on a hot car. The product then gets sticky as it cures, but you can still work with it during the sticky time, rubbing it in and spreading it evenly with the towelette. I did not use a microfiber to "knock down" heavy spots. I just came back around with the towelette. I think a dry microfiber might pull off too much product. When it is half-cured, it is sticky and you can buff it with the towelette at this stage to further flatten and even things out. Work in sections, one piece of trim at a time. 3) Overlaps won't show as long as you rub it all in thoroughly. I tried the overlapping parallel passes method that they recommend, and this works pretty well. I was worried that I might get a "double heavy" streak where the passes overlap but this not so unless the towelette is fresh, but this is fixable. You can do a pretty natural, casual back-and-forth motion for the most part and it comes out fine. This is NOT a super-finicky product. I made a second or third back-and-forth pass in a few areas, and used circular motion in some places where the trim was textured or a little rough from wear, and it all looked even in the end. Just rub it down into the plastic and even out the sheen while it is uncured and it's good. 4) It cures like you see it when it's still wet. It doesn't lighten up very much as it cures. It just looks a little less wet. So get it right by eye when it is wet and that's pretty much what you will still have in an hour when it is cured. 5) Don't miss a spot! You'll see it for sure if you do because the different is so dramatic. And a "second coat" is not easy or recommended. This is the only once-and-done part that you want to get right, and you have plenty of cure time to be thorough. 6) Use the folded corner of the towelette to get into small corners and edges, like where the trim meets the paint or has an inside corner or some little nook. A fresh towelette is great for getting into small areas because a feather touch applies plenty of product when the towelette is fresh. The trim now looks amazing and I am entirely satisfied. I will use Cerakote on my other vehicles. The only minor con is a strong ammonia smell when you are up close to it while it is wet. No smell once it is cured. I would definitely wear the recommended gloves while applying. As others say, you will probably drop that towelette on the ground. It's slippery when wet. Keep it folded in quarters as it comes for ease of application. Turn to a new quarter once a side gets dirty or dry and fold it inside out for four more quarters to use. Bonus, but off-label -- at your own risk: The product is not intended for the soft rubber around the windows, but I tried it there too, and it looks amazing. All I did was wash the rubber with dish soap like the trim, and I rubbed it a few times with a wet microfiber cloth to get the superficial layer of oxidized rubber off. Then I applied Cerakote. It looks great. The rubber used to be blotchy and faded. The microfiber evened this out a little. I would not use melamine on the rubber -- this made it look worse in a test section. The Cerakote made it look great: jet black, much shiner, and much more even looking. Not quite "brand new" but far better than I thought possible. I thought I might need to replace the rubber. Now it's looking great next to the jet-black new paint. This afterthought use alone was worth the money. Can you apply a second coat the next day? They don't say you can, and I don't recommend it. This is meant to be one-shot, which is why you should check to make sure you don't miss any spots. I had two areas where I tried a second coat the next day. The first was on the plastic trim between the windshield and the hood. I didn't rub this trim much with melamine beforehand so there was a lighter area (light grey originally, the worst spot) that didn't get as black as the other sections so I did it again, which helped a little, but not much. I didn't wash this area with soap beforehand because I wasn't intending to fix it until I got going. Once you put things back to black you will start noticing other faded things more. Likewise, I did a second coat on the very top of the soft rubber at the bottom of the windows (the part which faces upward and thus gets the most sun), it wasn't as shiny as the other parts, so I went over that section gently again the next day with a fresh towelette. As soon as I did it, I thought it was a mistake. This didn't go well initially because the cured coating is very hydrophobic so the new, wet, Cerakote of the second coat goes on smooth initially and then "puddles up" into little droplets a few minutes later. It doesn't want to stick to the first coat. I thought I had messed it up, but I let it cure a little until the sticky phase, and spread it out again with the towelette. It stayed that time but gathered back a little into some streaks. I spread it once more a few minutes later and it looked good. It stayed even. It looks just fine a few days later, so I think it cured OK. I hope this product last for months as advertised. Even if it doesn't I would totally do it again because the results are superior, I still have half my towelettes left, and the product is not expensive. 10/10 would do again and will recommend to everyone.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2025
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Verified Purchase
Robert Barger
West Palm Beach, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to use, amazing results
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
This is an awesome product that is easy to use and has amazing results. My plastic trim never looked so good.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2026

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