SKU: 52719813120
crassula buddha's temple succulent plant

crassula buddha's temple succulent plant Crassula Buddha's Temple 2" Pot

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Description

crassula buddha's temple succulent plant Crassula Buddha's Temple 2" PotThe stunning Crassula Buddha's Temple, also known as Crassula pyramidalis Buddhas Temple, is a unique and eye catching hybrid succulent. The name "Buddha's Temple" is inspired by its distinctive shape, which resembles the tiers of a temple or pagoda. This succulent is believed to have originated from South Africa, where it thrives in arid and rocky environments. The Crassula Buddha's Temple is a hybrid cross between Crassula falcata and Crassula

The stunning Crassula Buddha's Temple, also known as Crassula pyramidalis Buddha’s Temple, is a unique and eye-catching hybrid succulent. The name "Buddha's Temple" is inspired by its distinctive shape, which resembles the tiers of a temple or pagoda. This succulent is believed to have originated from South Africa, where it thrives in arid and rocky environments.  

The Crassula Buddha's Temple is a hybrid cross between Crassula falcata and Crassula pyramidalis. This combination has resulted in a plant with intriguing architectural features.


The leaves of this Crassula grow in stacked tiers, forming a pyramid-like structure folded up at the red edges.

Its leaves are heart-shaped, thick, and fleshy, with a powdery, glossy green colour. This square-shaped column grows up to 12 inches tall and 1.6 inches wide, producing branches from the sides.

The flowers of the Buddha's Temple Crassula are small and star-shaped, with a pale pink or white colour.

They bloom in clusters atop tall stems, creating a lovely contrast against the green foliage. The flowering period typically occurs during the spring and summer months. 

When it comes to propagation, the Crassula Buddha's Temple can be propagated through stem cuttings or leaf cuttings. Simply take a healthy stem or leaf cutting, allow it to callus for a few days, and then plant it in well-draining soil. With proper care and attention, the cuttings will develop roots and grow into new Buddha plants. 

Additionally, the Buddha's Temple Crassula is considered friendly to both humans and pets. However, it's always good practice to keep any plant out of reach of curious pets or small children, as ingestion can still cause mild stomach discomfort. 

When and How to Water Your Crassula Buddha's Temple 

Crassula Buddha’s Temple is highly drought-tolerant, thanks to its thick, stacked leaves that store moisture efficiently. This architectural succulent prefers infrequent but deep watering, as its roots are sensitive to excess moisture. Always let the soil dry out completely before watering again; overly damp conditions can quickly lead to root rot. The Crassula Buddha's temple prefers watering once every 1-2 weeks, and once every 3-4 weeks in the dormant season.

In spring and summer, during the growing season, your Buddha’s Temple will actively produce new stacked leaves, so it appreciates a bit more moisture. Water once every 1–2 weeks, depending on how quickly the soil dries in your climate. Give a deep soak and then allow the soil to fully dry out before the next watering. Avoid getting water on the leaves, as moisture trapped between the tight leaf layers can lead to rot.

In fall and winter, during the dormant season, the plant’s growth slows, and its water needs drop significantly. Reduce watering to once every 3–4 weeks, or even slightly less if your home stays cool. The goal is to give just enough moisture to prevent shrivelling while keeping the soil mostly dry. If the stacked leaves turn yellow or feel mushy, that’s a sign of overwatering; cut back immediately.

Light Requirements - Where to Place Your Crassula Buddha's Temple

When growing indoors, the Crassula Buddha's Temple thrives in bright, indirect light. Place your Buddha's temple succulent plant near a window that receives plenty of sunlight, but make sure to avoid direct sunlight, especially during the hottest parts of the day. If your Crassula Buddha's temple isn't getting enough light, you may notice it is stretching or leaning toward the light source, which is a sign that it needs more light. In that case, you can consider using artificial grow lights to supplement the natural light. 

For outdoor growing Crassula Buddha's Temple, it's important to find a spot that offers partial shade. This means providing your succulent with 4-6 hours of direct sunlight in the morning or late afternoon while protecting it from the intense midday sun. Too much direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of the Buddha's temple plant, so finding a balance between sun and shade is key. 

Optimal Soil & Fertilizer Needs 

When it comes to the soil, this lovely Buddha's temple succulent prefers well-draining soil that allows excess water to flow out easily. A mix of regular potting soil and perlite or pumice works well to create a light and airy texture. This type of soil helps prevent water from sitting around the roots, which can lead to root rot.  Instead, make or buy a well-draining potting mix, or ideally, use our specialized succulent potting mix that contains 5 natural substrates and mycorrhizae to promote the development of a strong root system that helps your Buddha's temple succulent to thrive.  

As for fertilizer, the Crassula Buddha's Temple plant doesn't require frequent feeding. During the growing season, which is typically spring, you can fertilize your Buddha's temple crassula once a year using a balanced (5-10-5), water-soluble NPK fertilizer diluted to half strength. This will provide the necessary nutrients without overwhelming your Crassula Buddha's Temple plant. In the dormant winter months, you can skip fertilizing altogether, as it is not actively growing during this time. 

Remember, it's important not to over-fertilize your Buddha's Temple Crassula, as succulents are generally low maintenance when it comes to feeding. Too much fertilizer can lead to excessive growth, weak stems, and other issues. Always follow the instructions and err on the side of caution when it comes to feeding your Buddha's Temple Crassula plant. 

Hardiness Zone & More 

When growing the Crassula Buddha's Temple indoors, it can adapt well to a variety of temperature ranges. It prefers temperatures between 60°F and 75°F, which is pretty comfortable for most indoor environments. It's important to avoid extreme temperature fluctuations and drafts, as they can stress your Buddha's temple succulent. As for humidity, the Crassula Buddha's temple is quite adaptable and can tolerate average indoor humidity levels. You don't need to worry too much about adjusting the humidity specifically for this Buddha's temple, Crassula. 

If you are living in USDA zone 9-11, you can grow your Buddha's Temple Crassula outdoors year-round. However, if you live in a colder zone, you can still enjoy this stunning Crassula succulent outdoors during the warmer months. Just make sure to bring it indoors or provide protection when temperatures drop below its preferred range. 

The Crassula Buddha's Temple can tolerate temperatures as low as 25 -50°F but prefers temperatures between 60°F and 75°F for optimal growth. As for humidity, it can handle a range of humidity levels, but it generally prefers moderate humidity. It's important to note that excessive humidity, especially in combination with low temperatures, can increase the risk of fungal diseases, so good air circulation is essential. 

Final Thoughts

Overall, the Crassula Buddha's Temple is a captivating hybrid succulent with tiered, pyramid-like foliage, reminiscent of a temple or pagoda. Its triangular leaves are thick, fleshy, and glossy green, with striking red edges. This unique plant produces delicate, star-shaped flowers in pale pink or white, adding to its charm. Buddha's temple crassula propagation can be done by stem or leaf cuttings. The Crassula Buddha's Temple is non-toxic to humans and pets, but it's always wise to keep it out of reach. Overall, it's a visually stunning succulent that brings a touch of architectural beauty to any plant collection. 

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T. Isaacson
Lake Worth, US
★★★★★ 5
Fit is good.
Filters fit and look essentially the same as the filters I’ve purchased and the official types from the dealer. I live in an area where wildfires occur almost every year,  so it’s good to have an extra set of filters to change them out after a run of smoky days. 
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Reviewed in the United States on July 1, 2025
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Charles
Waukegan, US
★★★★★ 5
Priced affordable, easy installation, fits snug and perfect and seems durable!!
This cabin air filter and engine air filter seems to be made of high quality materials, installation was a breeze, fitment seems to be perfectly snug affordably priced for a cabin air filter and an engine air filter combined, as for functionality, Only time will tell on its durability.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 2, 2025
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Verified Purchase
Philip and Lucy
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
Fits Toyota 2010 FJ cruiser
Perfect fit for a Toyota 2010 FJ cruiser. Install might have been the easiest cabin filter I've done in any car that new. Remove glove box, pull out the cover and replace it. Fits great and takes odors out from it sitting for 6 months in the driveway. No notice to less airflow when on any level of fan speed.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 30, 2026
S
Verified Purchase
S
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
Comparison with POTAUTO filter: Very similar but cheaper
I bought a POTAUTO MAP 1033C and EPAuto CP846 cabin air filter to compare them for use in my 09 Legacy (gen 4). They both seemed comparable and are cheaper than most other, similar filters, though the POTAUTO was and still is ~33% more expensive than the EPAuto. Both seem built well-enough, considering they're only being used as relatively low-flow cabin filters. That said, the EPAuto is slightly better, mainly due to the white trim piece being unattached along one side on the bottom of the POTAUTO filter. Almost certainly nothing that will affect its performance or longevity, but it is interesting considering it's the more expensive of the two. However, it must be kept in mind that this is an incredibly small sample size. In one of my very scientific tests (/s), I held them up side by side and looked through them toward the sun (obviously being careful) to judge thickness/density and uniformity. Neither had any thin spots that I noticed, and they were pretty similar overall. One of them blocked slightly more light than the other, indicating more filtration, but I unfortunately don't remember which one. I feel like it was the EPAuto, but I don't really want to speculate as I could very well be wrong. What I do remember is that the difference was so minor that all else being equal, it wouldn't justify the cost difference between the two. In other words, even if the POTAUTO were the slightly better one, it wouldn't be worth the extra few dollars for the minimal amount of extra filtration. In another test, I compared the filters to each other and the old filter (which I'm pretty sure was OEM, but certainly not a charcoal filter, so it was significantly thinner) by blowing air from a compressor through them. I held the nozzle at roughly the same distance from each on one side of the filters, and I held my other hand at roughly the same distance from each on the other side. The old filter, unsurprisingly, let much more air flow through. Both charcoal filters were much more restrictive due to their extra thickness, leading me to feel much less air coming through. Both were roughly the same. Both filters also held up just fine to the strong blasts of air. I bought a couple other filters that I was going to cut to fit to use one or both with these filters as a pre-filter and/or additional charcoal layer. After the airflow test, I decided against this, as these are a lot more restrictive than OEM already, and I didn't want to push it, since that could at best cause issues with getting good airflow into the car, and at worst could damage the blower. If not for the fact many, many people have been using these and similar filters for a long time without apparent issue caused by this, I would hesitate to even use these. I haven't noticed a decrease in the airflow, but it's doubtful I would since I rarely turn the fan up past the first couple settings (usually have it on the first) if I have it running at all, and I have the center vents pulled out (to access the inside of the dash) which causes the flow at the vents to be reduced slightly. TL;DR - Both the POTAUTO and EPAuto charcoal filters appear to be a good choice, with the EPAuto having a slight edge on build quality (based on my limited sample size of one each) and a cheaper price. Filtration appears to be very similar between the two, certainly not enough of a difference to warrant the extra price for the POTAUTO over the EPAuto. Flow is significantly more restrictive than OEM filter but doesn't appear to be an issue. I give the EPAuto 5 stars and the POTAUTO 4 stars, only because the value of the POTAUTO is a good bit less (very similar or possibly even inferior quality for 33% more money). I can't speak to their longevity or performance, but I don't imagine either should prove to be an issue. -------------------------------------------------- As a side note relating specifically to the Legacy: replacing the cabin filter in this car is a PITA. It's not overly difficult per se, but a serious pain and certainly not something you're going to do when you have a spare few minutes. I'd rate it probably around a 3.5/10 in difficulty and a 7/10 for annoyance. While you can sort of access it by removing the manual compartment, you can't remove the tray through that. So you need to actually take the whole glove box out, which requires removing the side panel, unhooking the string/loop that keeps it from falling all the way down, and removing a few plastic screws, which can be a bit of a pain (and apparently Subaru loves them since they're all over the car). A stubby Philips driver will be helpful. Once you have the glove box out of the way, you have to unscrew several more of those plastic screws to remove the plastic cover between the glove box and the filter. This hole is where you gain access. Be careful when removing the old filter as loose dirt and debris may fall out and make a bit of a mess. You don't really want to get any in the fan below it if you can help it. Reverse the steps to reassemble it, and remember to reattach the string. Getting the glove box back in its track can be a bit of a challenge; in my experience from doing it multiple times I've found you sort of half force it and half don't. That is, it'll likely offer some resistance even if it's lined up, so if you try to baby it you'll probably be there a while, but also play with the alignment a bit to see if you can get it without marring up the tab and the slot on the right side too much. All in all, expect to spend anywhere from 15-45 minutes on this, and make sure you have a standard length as well as a shorter or stubby Philips screwdriver. I have to say, when it comes to air filters, this car is horrible. The air intake filter is a pain to change, too--much worse than most if not all other cars I've done. -------------------------------------------------- Keywords: Subaru Legacy, fourth gen, fourth generation, 4th gen, 4th generation, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
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Reviewed in the United States on September 29, 2017
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Verified Purchase
R
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 5
Good price on the part and 5 min install saved me $35
Fit fine in my 4th gen 4Runner took 5mins to install
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Reviewed in the United States on April 19, 2026

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