SKU: 6265126227
mix your own succulent soil

mix your own succulent soil Molly's Gritty Mix for Cactus & Bonsai

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Description

mix your own succulent soil Molly's Gritty Mix for Cactus & BonsaiQuick answer: what is Molly's Succulent Mix? For: succulents, cacti, bonsai, Haworthia, Echeveria, Sedum, Jade, and any arid environment plant. What's in it: high mineral gritty blend of pumice, lava rock, and crushed bark. Low organic matter by design. Why it works: succulent roots are built to drink fast and dry out fast. The gritty structure drains in seconds and holds zero standing water, so roots don't rot. Pre rinsed and pH balanced straight

Quick answer: what is Molly's Succulent Mix?

  • For: succulents, cacti, bonsai, Haworthia, Echeveria, Sedum, Jade, and any arid-environment plant.
  • What's in it: high-mineral gritty blend of pumice, lava rock, and crushed bark. Low organic matter by design.
  • Why it works: succulent roots are built to drink fast and dry out fast. The gritty structure drains in seconds and holds zero standing water, so roots don't rot.
  • Pre-rinsed and pH-balanced straight from the bag. No salt flush required.
  • Bonsai-safe. The grit profile matches what serious bonsai growers blend by hand from akadama, pumice, and lava.

More plant-specific guidance: Ultimate guide to growing succulents indoors, Potting soil vs potting mix.

Succulents and cacti evolved in arid, mineral-rich environments where water moves through gritty substrate in seconds. Their roots are built to drink fast and dry out fast. Standard potting soil holds moisture for days, suffocates the roots, and rots them from the bottom up. The fix is a high-mineral, low-organic, gritty mix.

Molly's Succulent Mix is engineered to mimic native desert and rocky-slope substrates. A blend of pumice, lava rock, and a small amount of organic matter that drains in seconds and forces the soak-and-dry watering rhythm succulents need.

The gritty-mix philosophy

Most "succulent soil" sold at garden centres is regular potting soil with sand mixed in. That's not what these plants want. The right mix is roughly 70% mineral aggregate (pumice and lava rock) and 30% structural organic (coir, charcoal). Water hits the surface and runs through within seconds. Roots get a brief, intense drink, then dry conditions for the next 1 to 2 weeks. That's how succulents stay alive in pots.

What's in the bag

  • Pumice (volcanic, lightweight): the mineral backbone. Holds a tiny amount of water inside its porous structure, but lets the rest drain freely.
  • Lava rock (red lava): chunky drainage and heat retention. Roots love the warmth differential it creates.
  • Coir fiber (small percentage): just enough organic to retain a little humidity and prevent the mix from drying to a brick. Not enough to compromise drainage.
  • Horticultural charcoal: filters salts from tap water (succulents are surprisingly sensitive to mineral buildup).
  • Calcitic limestone (trace): buffers pH to the slightly alkaline range (6.5 to 7.5) most desert succulents prefer.

Low peat content, no worm castings (succulents don't want a nutrient flush), no commercial fertilizer. The whole mix is intentionally lean.

Plants this is for

Designed for succulents and cacti:

  • Echeveria, Sedum, Crassula (jade), Sempervivum: the classic rosette succulents.
  • Haworthia, Gasteria: they prefer slightly more shade but want the same gritty drainage.
  • Aloe (vera and others): medicinal succulents, this mix prevents the rot they're prone to in heavier soils.
  • Most cacti: Mammillaria, Echinopsis, Opuntia, San Pedro, golden barrel.
  • Lithops (living stones): require fast drainage to stay alive year-round; this mix is well-suited.
  • Bonsai with high drainage needs: juniper, pine, and certain deciduous bonsai work well.
  • Caudex plants: Adenium, Pachypodium, and other swollen-stem species that need fast drainage at the base.

Not for: tropical "succulent-looking" plants like Hoya, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), or Easter cactus, which actually prefer humidity-retaining mixes. For those, use Molly's Aroid Mix.

Watering with gritty mix

The right rhythm: soak and dry. Water deeply, then wait until the mix is bone-dry before watering again.

  1. Wait until the top 2 to 3 inches feel completely dry. For most succulents in standard 4 to 6 inch pots, that's every 10 to 21 days indoors.
  2. Water until liquid runs clearly out the drainage holes. Don't dribble. Soak.
  3. Discard any water in the saucer. Do not let the pot sit in standing water.
  4. Wait. The plant will let you know when it's thirsty (slight wrinkling of leaves, lighter pot weight).

In winter, water roughly half as often. Most succulents go dormant or semi-dormant.

FAQ

Why is this so heavy compared to other succulent soil?

Because it's mostly minerals, not peat or coco coir. The weight is what makes it work. Light bag means light drainage, which is the opposite of what succulents need.

Can I use this for bonsai?

For tropical bonsai, no, they want a moisture-retentive aroid-style mix. For drought-tolerant bonsai (juniper, pine, certain deciduous species), yes, this mix or a 50/50 blend with finer organics works well.

Will the mix break down or stay porous over time?

Stays porous. The mineral components (pumice, lava rock, charcoal) don't decompose. The small organic fraction breaks down slowly. Most succulents in this mix can go 2 to 3 years before repotting.

Should I add fertilizer?

Sparingly. Succulents are slow growers and don't need much. A diluted (~1/4 strength) cactus-specific fertilizer once during the growing season (spring) is plenty for most species.

Packaged in a heat-sealed resealable bag. New formula released April 2026, see the formula release announcement for details on what changed.

Related care guide

Watering, light, and repotting fundamentals for succulents and cacti.

→ Read the Succulent & Cactus Care guide

Have questions? Read the Molly's Succulent Mix FAQ for detailed information on watering, repotting, and which succulents this mix works best for.

New: the complete soil guide

Not sure if you need cactus soil or succulent soil? They are the same thing. Read: Best Soil for Succulents and Cactus →

Not sure which mix your plant needs?

Take our free 60-second Soil Finder quiz → Diagnose the problem and get the exact Molly's mix and amount for your plant, plus 10% off.

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An Excellent Primer on Novel-Writing
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WIRED FOR STORY By Lisa Cron Reviewed by C J Singh (Berkeley, California) Excellent Primer on Novel-Writing In Berkeley, California, we happily have access to four independent bookstores that display literary novels and creative-writing craft books. Browsing, I picked up two books by Lisa Cron on using "Brain Science" for writing fiction. The jacket quote by Caroline Leavitt rivetted my attention: "I'd never consider writing a novel without Lisa's input, and neither should you." As a longtime fan of Leavitt's novels "Is This Tomorrow," " Pictures of You, " "Girls in Trouble," I looked up Stanford Continuing Education where Leavitt regularly teaches online courses. As a Stanford Alumnus (Psychology PhD), I've taken several on-campus and online workshops on fiction-writing. While still at the bookstore, I promptly signed up for Leavitt's soon-to-begin course that uses two coaching books: Cron's Wired For Story and John Truby's The Anatomy of Story. I'm familiar with Truby's book and its nine excellent exercises. See my detailed review on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/review/R29NU7U6LAHGBV/ Here's my review of Lisa Cron's "Wired For Story" "WIRED FOR STORY' presents a unique, distinguishing feature among fiction-writing primers: throughout its text, the author includes excerpts from the published works of leading contemporary brain-scientists that validate the principles of narrative craft. Cron explains the principles of narrative craft in twelve well-organized chapters that focus on theme, the protagonist's issue, characters' bios, points of view, rising conflicts, subplots, suspense, reveals, and the arc from setup to payoff. At the beginning of each chapter, she presents sentences in italics that illuminate the cognitive-science underpinnings of narrative craft. Examples follow. "Cognitive Secret: When the brain focuses its full attention on something, it filters out all unnecessary information. Story Secret: To hold the brain's attention, everything in a story must be there on a need-to-know basis" (page 23). . "Cognitive Secret: Everything we do is goal directed and our biggest goal is figuring out everyone else's agenda, the better to figure out our own. Story Secret: A protagonist without a clear goal has nothing to figure out and nowhere to go" (p 65) . "Cognitive Secret: It takes long-term, conscious effort to hone a skill before the brain assigns it to the cognitive unconscious. "Story Secret: There's no writing; there's only rewriting" (p 219). Also remarkable are sentences in bold that challenge advice offered in some writing-craft workshops and books. Examples follow. "Myth: Write What You Know. "Reality: Write What You Know EMOTIONALLY" (p 62). . "Myth: Sensory Details Bring a Story to Life." "Reality: Unless They Convey Necessary Information, Sensory Details Clog a Story's Arteries" (p 118). . "Myth: `Show, Don't Tell' Is Literal - Don't Tell Me John Is Sad, Show Him Crying. "Reality: `Show, Don't Tell Is Figurative - Don't Tell Me John Is Sad, Show Me WHY He's Sad" (p 152). Has the author introduced a Myth of her own? I am afraid so. On page 57, "No matter whose point of view you're writing in, you may be in only one head per scene." In my opinion, the Reality is: No matter whose point of view you're writing in, you may be in only one head per PARAGRAPH. This is the new reality -- virtually every fiction-readers' perception has been reshaped by watching films and TV dramas that imply the camera engaged in frequent head-hopping in a scene. At the end of each chapter, Cron presents a concise series of checkpoints to remind the readers while they develop their work-in-progress. Throughout, she includes many examples from literary works and films. 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Reviewed in the United States on March 7, 2020

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