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planting wildflowers seeds

planting wildflowers seeds MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIX

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Description

planting wildflowers seeds MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIXMidwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~ Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season, therefore we have included spring, summer, and fall blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

Product Information

  • Application or Use: Ornamental, Lawn, Cover Crop, Erosion Control
  • Germination Time: 14 - 21 days, under optimal conditions
  • Growing Locations: Transition Zone & Cool Season
  • Height: 2 - 4 feet
  • Sunlight Requirements: 8+ hours, full sun for best results
  • Advantages: Perfectly blended for the Midwest U.S.
  • When to Plant: See Instructions Tab.

**This mix is Non-GMO**

This mix contains the following seed. *Mixture is subject to change depending on seed availability*

  • Lanceleaf Coreopsis
  • Purple Coneflower
  • Blue Flax
  • California Poppy
  • Clasping Coneflower
  • Plains Coreopsis
  • Calendula
  • Black Eyed Susan
  • Rocket Larkspur
  • Mixed Colors Corn Poppy

This mix may vary depending on harvest and availability.


*Product packaging may appear different than what is pictured. ~~~

 Wildflower Planting Time Based on Region:

Southeast

  • Fall, Winter: Sowing wildflowers in Fall/Winter is the ideal time in the Southeast, with October 1 – December 31 being the best dates. The weather is ideal for starting seeds, and seedlings can grow and harden off before frost.
  • Spring: A good time to plant wildflowers, especially annual species that flower quickly. Plant after the last frost date when soil temperatures have warmed to around 55°F, typically occurring within a month or so after the final frost of winter; this ensures the seeds can germinate properly without being affected by cold weather.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Southwest

  • Fall: A good time to plant spring wildflowers in the desert Southwest. Fall's cooler temperatures and seasonal rains help seeds germinate. In the mountains, you can plant after spring frosts.
  • Winter: In areas that get snow, winter seeding can give seeds an advantage in the spring. 
  • Spring: A popular time to plant wildflowers in most states. You can plant after the last frost and when the soil temperature is at least 55°F. In warmer climates, you can plant at the end of the rainy season.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Northeast

  • Fall, Winter: The best time to plant wildflowers in the Northeast is in late fall, after the first frost but before heavy snow. This is known as dormant seeding and can take place from November to December. Cold temperatures and damp soil during the winter help wildflower seeds germinate. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring, after the ground has thawed and soil temperatures reach around 55-65°F. This is a popular time to plant wildflowers because it's typically rainier, which helps water seedlings. 
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Midwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Western

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Pacific Northwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: In cooler zones with higher elevation, you can plant wildflowers in late spring to early summer, after the risk of frost has passed. You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

More on wildflower mixtures and plantings:

Our wildflower mixtures are formulated on the basis of climatic conditions (rainfall, temperature range, humidity) and elevation. Most species in our mixtures adapt readily to different soil types, provided climate and elevation are suitable. Annuals have been included to establish cover quickly and to give color the first year; some may produce new plants the following year (the biennials may also reseed). Perennial plants live for more than two years, and most flower from the second year onward.

These mixtures are blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season; therefore, we have included Spring, Summer and Fall-blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

In general, our mixtures are formulated to contain approximately equal numbers of seeds of each species. This varies somewhat because of costs, availability and/or climatic conditions. Mixtures may vary occasionally from the indicated listing, based on availability of individual species.

Seed Quality:

Most wildflower seeds and mixtures have a purity of 95 to 99% and total viable seed percentages of between 70 to 95%. The total viable seed percent is the germination percent, plus the hard seed or dormant seed percent. Hard seeds have impermeable seed coats and cannot imbibe water during seed testing. Dormant seeds are viable seeds that have specific physical or physiological conditions that prevent the seed from germinating at the time of seed testing. The PLS (Pure Live Seed) is obtained by multiplying the percent purity by the percent total viable seed and then dividing by 100.

Uses of Grasses:

Wildflowers can be sown alone or with grasses. For most areas of the United States, we recommend using one of our native grass mixtures. For specific requirements, individual species may be preferred. Hard Fescue or Sheep Fescue work well in most areas of the United States. However, in the southeastern states of Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi and South Carolina, we recommend warm-season grasses; Hard and Sheep Fescue will not thrive in these climates.

Warm-season grasses to consider include Gramas, Buffalo Grass and Bluestems. These grasses grow very slowly and are planted for aesthetic and ecological reasons rather than prompt stabilization of soil.

Aggressive grasses should be avoided because they will crowd out most wildflowers; these grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Smooth Brome, Crested Wheatgrass, Bermuda Grass, and Annual Rye. If wildflowers must be used with these grasses, the flowers should be planted in high-density patches as accents to the grassed areas. Or the flowers may be sown with the grasses if the planting rates of the grasses are reduced significantly.~~~

Plant at a rate of 40 to 44 lbs. per acre (1 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft.).

Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support wildflowers. Will there be adequate moisture during germination and establishment? Can you supply supplemental water, if necessary? What weed seeds are likely to be present in the soil? Will weeds spread to your site from adjacent areas? Assessment of these factors will enable you to make a realistic choice of a site where wildflowers will prosper and to decide what action will be necessary to ensure your success.

When to Plant:

The best time to plant in your area depends on the climate and rainfall patterns as well as the species you are planting. In cool climates, plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in Spring, early Summer or late Fall. Fall plantings should be late enough so that seeds do not germinate until Spring. Perennials can also be sown in early fall provided that there are at least 10 to 12 weeks of growing time before the plants go dormant for the Winter. Late Fall plantings are advantageous when supplemental irrigation cannot be provided and adequate rainfall is anticipated in the spring.

In mild climates, plant during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring, for best results. Fall plantings done prior to periods of rainfall will insure an early display of flowers the following Spring.

Site Preparation:

Proper site preparation is important for prompt germination of seed and healthy growth of seedlings. Best results will be obtained by planting on cleared ground. Remove existing vegetation to avoid competition from other plants. This may be done by pulling, tilling under, spraying with a general herbicide, or by a combination of these methods, depending upon the size of the area, type and density of vegetation and other factors. Loosen soil by scraping, tilling or scarifying. Tilling should be utilized only when soil is very compacted and further weed control measures can be taken. Specific recommendations are given under the heading, Weed Control.

Seed Application:

Method of application depends on the size of the area and the terrain. On small areas, broadcast seeds evenly either by hand or by use of a drop or cyclone spreader. It is helpful to mix a carrier such as clean, dry sand with the seed; sand adds volume and aids in even distribution. We recommend using a ratio of 1 or 2 parts sand to 1 part seed. Rake in lightly, covering seeds to a maximum depth of 2 to 3 times their thickness. Or drag the area lightly with a piece of chain link fence to mix the seed into the surface of the soil. For seeding large areas, i.e., over one acre, specially-designed drills are most effective. Drill to a maximum of 1/4 in. and firm soil with a cultipacker. This maximizes seed-to-soil contact. Hydroseeders are also effective, especially for steep slopes, rocky terrain and other areas where conditions make it impractical for other methods of seed application.

Hydroseeding is the application of a slurry of seed and water to soil. The slurry may also contain mulch (hydromulching), a tackifier and fertilizer. Mulches are made of wood fiber, paper or excelsior, and their purpose is to hold seeds in place, help retain moisture and provide protection from erosion (mulches are usually dyed green as a visual aid in even distribution). Rates of application for most mulches are between 1,500 and 2,300 pounds per acre. In general, hydroseeding or hydromulching is most successful in moist climates or in irrigated areas.

Most authorities agree that germination is better when seed is applied first with 5 to 10% of the mulching fiber; the balance of the mulch being applied separately as a second step. This approach ensures optimal seed-to-soil contact. Otherwise, many seeds are wasted because they become suspended in the fiber.

It is important that proper procedures are followed to minimize the amount of time that seed is circulated through pumps or paddles prior to application. Overcirculation may damage the seed.

Moisture:

All seeds, including wildflowers, need ample moisture to germinate and to develop into healthy seedlings. Best results will be obtained by soaking the planted areas thoroughly and maintaining consistent moisture for 4 to 6 weeks, then gradually reduce waterings. In non-irrigated situations, plant in the Spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall. After seedlings are established, watering may be reduced depending on the climate and rainfall. In arid climates or during drought conditions, up to 1/2 in. of supplemental water per week may be required to maintain an optimal display. If weeds are present, remember that they benefit from moisture as much as the wildflowers and may dominate over-watered areas.

Fertilization:

Many wildflowers benefit from some fertilization if the soil does not have adequate nutrients. Some wildflowers do fine in poor soils, while others require a more fertile environment. We recommend that a soil test be performed when soil quality is unknown. If the soil needs improvement, use a low nitrogen fertilizer with a 5-10-10 ratio or add organic matter such as weed-free straw or grass clippings, well-rotted compost, peat moss, or leaf mold. In addition to adding nutrients, organic materials enhance soil structure and encourage beneficial microorganisms. Avoid over-fertilizing which may promote weed growth and lush foliage rather than flowers.

Weed Control:

Weed control is the biggest problem facing plant establishment, and one which has no easy solution. Weed seeds are present in many situations and lie dormant, but viable, for long periods. A weedy area converted to wildflowers will have a large reservoir of weed seeds in the soil, ready to germinate when conditions are favorable. In most cases, it is advisable to consider weed control in two phases—as part of site preparation prior to planting, and as an important component of the post-germination maintenance program.

Before planting, remove existing weeds by pulling, tilling under, applying a glyphosate herbicide such as RoundUp, or by a combination of these methods. For additional weed control after site preparation, a soil fumigant may be used, or the area may be irrigated to encourage weed growth and then sprayed with a general herbicide.

In very weedy areas, the following method is suggested: Till soil or spray vegetation with RoundUp. When using an herbicide, allow vegetation to die, then rake out the dead debris. If perennial weeds such as bindweed are present, using an herbicide is more effective than tilling. Irrigate to encourage germination of weed seeds near the surface; most seeds will germinate within two weeks if consistent moisture is available. Do not till the soil again because this will bring even more weed seeds up to the surface. Spray any new growth with RoundUp. After raking out dead vegetation, allow soil to recover for 3 to 4 weeks before planting seed. From our experience, a recovery period of this duration is advisable because extensive use of glyphosate herbicides may cause a delay in germination and in the vigorous growth of seedlings.

Once the seeds have germinated, further weed control is usually necessary. If practical, pull all weeds as soon as they can be identified.

Other successful techniques are spot-spraying with a general herbicide or selectively cutting weeds with a string trimmer. Be sure to remove weeds before they reseed.

Many unwanted annual and some perennial grasses can be controlled with the herbicides Grass-B-Gon, Ornamec, and Fusilade. These post-emergents do not affect broad-leaved plants so they can be applied over existing flowers. They are most effective when sprayed on new growth and young plants. Take care to avoid treating areas with desirable native grasses or fescues.

What to Expect:

Wildflowers can provide an excellent, low cost alternative in large-scale, high maintenance situations, as well as a satisfying change from traditional urban landscaping. However, during their initial establishment period, wildflowers require as much maintenance as traditional plantings.

A smooth, weed and vegetation-free planting bed is important for good seed-to-soil contact and prompt germination. Avoid seeding more than the recommended rate since overseeding can result in crowded conditions the first year, and poor establishment of perennials. Cover seeds lightly to protect them from drying out during germination, and to prevent them from being eaten by birds. Consistent moisture is important for 4 to 6 weeks after planting.

A wildflower planting requires the same weed control measures as traditional landscaping. Effective measures include site preparation prior to planting and a post-germination maintenance program.

Most of our wildflower mixes contain annual, biennial and perennial species. The annuals, which may not be native to your area, are included to assure maximum color during the first season and to act as a nurse crop for the slower-growing perennials. Annuals germinate quickly when conditions are favorable, providing a quick ground cover and competition against weeds. Natural reseeding of annuals ranges from significant to minimal, depending on the species, climate, soil texture and other factors. Most perennial and biennial species begin to bloom the second season, but not as profusely as annuals. Therefore, wildflower plantings look noticeably different after the first year.

Sometimes it is desirable or even necessary to sow seed in second and subsequent years. Reseeding may be necessary if establishment of wildflowers is spotty or poor. It is possible to reseed bare areas with the original mixture. Loosen soil of bare areas and provide adequate weed control and supplemental irrigation as needed. Where natural reseeding of annuals is minimal, sowing annuals each spring can produce a magnificent annual and perennial display throughout the growing season.

If desired, wildflowers may be mowed in the Fall following seed set. Mow to a height of 4 to 6 in., and leave the residue on the ground because it is a reservoir of viable seeds.

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Martijn13Maart1970
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 5
Unfortunately yet another one to add on the pile of writing books!
Format: Paperback
I say 'unfortunately another good book on writing' since I have been reading many books on the topic and each time I think I have read it all by now, pfff, but then another one like this comes along. But hey, it is fun to read about writing and especially if you get something useful and new out of it. Always worth the money. Why the accolades for this book? All the information on characters, plot, details etc, how they work and why they are important, is not new. You find them in many reading books, especially from Reader's and Writer's Digest series. I would especially recommend the books on plot and structure by James Scott Bell. Yet this book Wired For Story is not redundant, since it is unique in both the focus on the familiar subjects like what story is, the importance of details, details versus generics, how events affect a character etc. The approach of using brain science shows in a compelling way why all the stuff in the book (and for that matter, the classic theory on writing) is there for a reason, since it has evolved out of how we humans seem to perceive a story. Interesting though, a lot of rules like 'write about what you know' are shown to be myths. Of course, in the end it is you as a reader that has to decide what works for you, but you will find new things here and that is always good. If you are thinking about writing a story, this book can give you a very sharp focus on what to think about before you start. Or, like me, when you have a draft, and you want to get to the 'real story' behind it to come forward, this work gives you a very transparent way to get better clues as to what stays and what has to go. It is also entertaining and easy to read, so, all I can say is, yet again a book on writing you cannot afford to miss! I just added some extra information: I loved the humor and wisdom of the writer. She has worked for years reading manuscripts and she does know her stuff, and I liked her tone, which was both realistic but also fun! How many times have you read a reference work and actually had to laugh? But this book was also profound on many story issues. Many common writing rules are, as I said before, shown to be myths and more importantly, why this is so. I have read for instance so often that you should have some sensory info on every page, but, as I thought myself and I am not the only one: although this makes things more lively, it should only be there if the story would dictate it! The book has many more things like these. I have compiled a collection of notes I took from all the many many books on writing so I measure new books on writing in how much text I copied and pasted to look at again and this book has given me lots, so 5 stars and I hope we will see more of this author again! I also recommend the book by James Scott Bell on plot and structure which you can find here
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Reviewed in the United States on October 28, 2012
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C. F. King
Houston, US
★★★★★ 5
Great book
Format: Kindle
I have been an author for decades and published 4 books. I've been an editor for over a decade and this book is perfect for seasoned and new writers. It certainly made me take a new, long look at the latest book I'm busy with. I think it's great for getting one focused on the important points. I loved it. There wasn't too much about how the brain works to bore one or make it feel like a technical book on neuroscience. I found her writing style amusing and entertaining. I will definitely recommend it to all my clients and writing friends. There was nothing in the book I didn't know, but this book forces one to focus on the bigger picture. It doesn't matter how accomplished one is as a writer, one can always learn more. And I certainly did with this book. So, thank you, Ms. Cron. I saw the negative three or fewer star comments and can only think the commentators didn't see what the author was actually trying to convey. It's a classic lesson in the KISS method (keep it simple stupid) and I loved it. This isn't a full-on, in-depth analysis of every part of the craft of writing, as many seemed to expect, that would take 12 full books or more. This is also not only for beginners as some suggest. To them I would say, don't let hubris cloud your ability to write better--think beyond that--read the book again. I think the book serves as an excellent reference to keep us on track when we lose the plot, so to speak. Seasoned writers can get quite jaded and write almost on auto-pilot at times--not good. Thank you, Ms. Cron, for putting me back on track and making me excited to re-write and re-edit my latest book, my first YA fantasy, for the zillionth time. I was out of my comfort zone with this book and feeling a bit overwhelmed and unsure. Wired for Story has me fired up to go forth and do this. I highly recommend this book, especially for seasoned writers.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 26, 2018
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robert lanier
Cuba, US
★★★★★ 5
Quality writing information
Format: Paperback
A book that was fun to read and informative. I feel as though I have a better understanding of writing fiction now.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 11, 2026
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Ron Mahon
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
Thanks to a great new book ”Wired for story
Format: Kindle
I’ve written many books over the years, and published 40 or so. Once I started writing my first novel, I found out that all the old techniques just didn’t work. Thanks to a great new book ”Wired for story. The writer’s guide to using brain science. By Lisa Cron” Lisa studied and cataloged the works of several Neuro scientists. She explained all of that, plus how it applied to writing a novel. Better yet, she then shows us how to apply these techniques to where it counts. In addition, This changes the hierarchy of your novel. Ensuring that it’s focusing on what’s important to the brain. Using this new brain science, she proposes a completely new hierarchy of needs for your book. Moreover, the fact that the brain is trying to solve the problem of the protagonist. • “What happens” is the plot • “Someone” is the protagonist • The “goal” is what’s known as the story question • “How are he or she changes” is what the story itself is actually about. As counterintuitive as it may sound, the story is not about the plot or even what happens in it. Stories are about how we, rather than the world around us, change. The more your reader discovers the missing pieces to solving the protagonist's problem the more interesting if it is. It seems as the mind creates a mental stimulation of events described in the story. But he goes much deeper than that Details about actions and sensations that are captured from the text and integrated with personal knowledge from past experiences these data are then run through mental stimulation using brain regions a closely mirror those involved when people perform, imagine, or observe similar real-world activities. Haven’t you ever come home from a movie, reenacting that movie in your own mind? When the events of the story of filtering through the protagonist's point of view, allowing us to watch as she makes sense of everything. Seeing it in her eyes. This is not just like we see things. It’s that we grasp what they mean to her. Other words the reader must be aware of the protagonist personal effect on everything that happens. This is exactly where I fell apart on my novel is should be a first person third person. Lisa explains all these points of view, their advantages, and their disadvantages… My personal choices third person, omniscient. It also fixes another problem about tags. This technique is so powerful the third person doesn’t have to be bothered with he said;​ she said it’s so intuitive, it needs no explanation. It also settles a big dispute that I’ve always had the use of italic, quotes, and indented text. None are necessary. Some of the best examples that I’ve ever seen for show rather than tell. All the points that the author makes are demonstrated and explained with real examples from published articles. It’s like a five-year writing course that you can complete in three or four days. I bookmarked it extensively so that I can get back to those important points. Neuroscience also explains why social proof works so well. And a few hints on how to customize it, for your particular problem or opportunity. As a copywriter, one who writes advertising copy? I have long been aware of how to write directly to the subconscious mind. These techniques have been known for almost 100 years. We just didn’t know why they worked. Only that they did work. Thanks to Lisa for this fantastic book, I now know why they work.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 19, 2015
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Doug Glassford
Phoenix, US
★★★★★ 5
Wowsers!
Format: Paperback
I purchased this book a few weeks ago expecting it to be pretty much like most of the other writing guides. I was not expecting to fall in love with it. I don't know if it appeals to me because of my ADD or the fact that many of the scientific studies Ms. Cron cites in her book confirms much of what I suspected was true in my dealings with people for over a half-century in sales and marketing. It helped fill in the gaps of how we as social creatures love to immerse ourselves in story on an ongoing basis... that we are hard-wired to socially share our thoughts and emotions through more than statistical data streams and cold hard facts. Her breakdown of the classic movie, "It's A Wonderful Life" literally changed my life by allowing me to see that George Bailey and I shared much in the way of misguided external goals blinding me to my true inner goals and motivations. I know this might sound like crap to some of you... but, I swear it is all true. In delving into what the protagonist of this movie wanted I discovered what I truly wanted and already had... I wanted to be unconditionally loved and accepted and I have all of that and more in my lovely wife. A black cloud of loathing at feeling like a failure lifted and I realize that if I died right now, I would do so a happy and fulfilled man. I know she did not write this book so I could pull my head out of a dark place, but, Lisa Cron, I thank you anyway. Other than my life altering epiphany, I would recommend this book because it is more than just another how to write better book... the information here will help anyone who wants to understand themselves better and the people around them either living or fictional. I can see where it will be a great help to writers who want to better write the stories that matter to them. I know it is helping me. I cannot recommend this book more highly than saying... buy it. It is worth every penny you'll spend on it. (For the record, I bought the paperback version.)
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Reviewed in the United States on December 10, 2012

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