SKU: 26990438666
empire waist dresses

empire waist dresses 215 Empire Dress

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Description

empire waist dresses 215 Empire DressMisses sizes SM 3XL. This high waisted dress known today as "empire" was worn in the period following the French Revolution in the late 1700s. Often called a "chemise gown" to satirize its scandalous brevity and lack of undergarments, it reflected a desire to return to simpler, classical Grecian dress after the excesses of the European nobility and patriot alike. Its peak of popularity was during the "First Empire" period (1799 1815); hence its name.

Misses sizes SM-3XL.

This high-waisted dress known today as "empire" was worn in the period following the French Revolution in the late 1700s. Often called a "chemise gown" to satirize its scandalous brevity and lack of undergarments, it reflected a desire to return to simpler, classical Grecian dress after the excesses of the European nobility and patriot alike.  Its peak of popularity was during the "First Empire" period (1799-1815); hence its name.  It was worn floor length or as high as knee length in front; trains were also worn for day or evening until 1806.  The Empire Dress has remained a favorite fashion silhouette through today.

Folkwear presents a sewing pattern for this classic in three lengths, with two sleeve options.  A narrow bodice is gathered into a slim A-line skirt front and side panels, and full gathered skirt back that falls to just below knee length, full length, or full length with train for weddings or formal wear.

On the traditional version, drawstrings fit the bodice firmly to the bust and tie at center back. For contemporary wear, we suggest a closed back and elastic in place of the drawstrings. Short puffed sleeves may be cut very high or slightly longer - both are authentic. The longer sleeves feature button and cord detailing. 

Suggested fabrics: Soft, lightweight or medium-weight fabrics such as cotton gauze, batiste, dotted Swiss, rayon challis, silk, very lightweight silk velvet with drape.

Yardage chart (.pdf)

Era: Regency, 1700s to early 1800s

This pattern is available as a Paper pattern and PDF pattern.  Choose the pattern format you want at the top.  The PDF pattern has instructions, and layered files for copy shop (36” and A0), projector, and print at home (A4 or 8.5”x11”).

Sewing Tip

Linda of Pine City, Minnesota, says this dress is popular with the Fur Trade reenactment crowd and she has made it several times. She says, "Some of us have a devil of a time putting together the little pieces that go around the armhole. The pattern markings are critical, and you should use tailor's tacks and position them carefully. I also suggest that you clearly mark the wrong side of each of the little pieces if your fabric's right and wrong sides are similar."

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SKU: 26990438666

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albert smart
Boise, US
★★★★★ 5
Good
Configuration: 4-Stroke, Size: 1 GA, Case of 3
Good
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Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2026
M
Verified Purchase
mattw
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 4
Oily situation lol
Configuration: 4-Stroke, Size: 1 GA
Honestly how do you write a review of this product? I would have to run tests for years on multiple oils on various engines to do so. The value was good however and shipping was great
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Reviewed in the United States on March 31, 2025
P
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Peter Schott
San Leandro, US
★★★★★ 5
Use the best oil to protect your investment
Configuration: 4-Stroke, Size: 1 GA
Great product.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 30, 2025
S
Verified Purchase
Steve M.
Waukegan, US
★★★★★ 5
Works well. You need to drill a 3/8” hole
Appears to be well made, alignment bar slides in nicely. As stated, you need to drill a hole in the bar for the gimble bearing driver, the directions are not clear, what I did was before I take out the old gimble bearing, put an O ring on the bar close to the last step on the bar, slide the bar all the way in, then carefully slide the bar out, this marks the distance from the back of the gimble bearing to where the shaft on the outdrive bottoms out, move the O ring a 1/4” towards the stepped part of the alignment tool (this is so you won’t bottom out the alignment tool when driving the gimble bearing in) then slide the driver puck up to the O ring and use a 3/8” diameter transfer punch through the side hole in the puck to mark the bar. You need to drill a 3/8” diameter hole in the alignment bar, two V blocks, some clamps, and a drill press will make drilling much easier, after the bar is securely mounted and centered in the drill press, use a center drill, then 1/4” drill first, using plenty of oil, drill all the way through, then use the 3/8” drill, deburr both sides and you should be good to go. People complain that it doesn’t come pre-drilled, the reason is that not all out drives are the same so you have to fit it to the outdrive that you have. Fortunately, I have a machine shop at my house and have a jig setup with various drill bushings, but the method I described above should work for you. Just make sure you’re perfectly centered and secure before you start drilling.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 16, 2026
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Nancy filippi
Lexington, US
★★★★★ 5
A must pull your gimbal bearing
You do need to drill a hole but worked perfect
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on December 26, 2025

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